Archive for the ‘Technical’ Category

Care & maintenance of trampoline beds/mats

Monday, September 21st, 2009

This is the all important fabric on which you bounce. It’s not elastic as so many people assume. The stretchy part that creates the bounciness is the suspension system that attaches the bed to the frame (usually steel springs). So the attachments at the edge of the bed are important. Over 99% of garden trampolines have a black polypropylene mesh fabric bed, usually there are steel triangles attached by webbing that is sewn into the edge of the bed. There are a number of rows of stitching all around the edge of the bed. In time this stitching will gradually wear and start to break. A few breaks here and there are nothing to worry about but once a steel triangle comes away and there is a spring hanging down below the frame it is time to either have the bed completely restitched or to replace it with a new one.

Your bed may get damaged. Often through no fault of your own. Whilst very strong and hard wearing these beds burn and cut easily. So nearby bonfires or firework displays can drop burning embers onto your trampoline bed. Winter gales send roof tiles, small branches and other items flying. Small burn holes less than 5mm across will not get any bigger and can be safely ignored. Larger holes that could trap little toes or fingers are not acceptable. In these cases the bed should be replaced. Whilst it is possible to patch a damaged bed be aware that it is only a temporary measure as the stitching will not last long, especially in the central area of the bed.

Whilst this black bed fabric is very UV stable and lasts 10 years or more in the northern European climate you can get the best out of your trampoline bed by ensuring that shoes and any sharp objects of clothing and jewellery are removed by users. Also encourage users to bounce in the centre of the bed so that stresses are evenly spread around the edge of the bed. Springs, triangular anchor webs and bed stitching are subjected to higher wear rates if users do not bounce in the centre of the bed. The centre of the bed just happens to also be the bounciest and safest area.

Of course a weather cover will help keep the bed clean and theoretically prolong the life of the fabric. That is if wear, tear and minor mishaps don’t destroy it first. If you feel the need to clean the bed use warm water and a scrubbing brush. Do not use petroleum based cleaners.

It should go without saying that skate boards, roller skates, wake boards, snow boards, skis and mountain bikes can all damage trampoline beds. Not to mention testing newly acquired pen knives for sharpness. Yes, we’ve seen it all!

Positive innovation

Monday, September 21st, 2009

They all look pretty much the same. So which make of trampoline should I buy? It is a hard choice. There are hundreds of different suppliers. So it is not surprising that manufacturers try to stand out from the crowd with a variety of catchy and innovative designs. Some look pretty smart and others a bit weird. But the questions you want answered are: Do they work? Do they do the job? Are they worth paying extra for? By and large the standard designs have stood the test of time and do work. Also they are generally good value for money. Many innovations in trampoline design have now become standard. The elasticated toggle loops that attach most sets of frame pads to the frame were first used by Super Tramp in 1993. Printed caution notices on frame pads were another Super Tramp first in 1989. The realisation that leg assemblies could fall off or worse still swing under the trampoine bed when the trampoline was moved to mow the lawn, heralded tensioned frames, friction catches, and spring ball catches. But are ‘T’ clamps the best way to attach vertical legs to the top frame? Only if the frame tubing is so light that a weld might not be strong enough. Are stretch bands or fibreglass rods better than springs? They certainly do not deliver a better or softer bounce. Does it matter just exactly how the trampoline safety enclosure attaches to the trampoline as long as it stays put and does the job? Just make sure that your enclosure will not catch the wind in the winter and your trampoline remains in your garden.

Kids Garden Social Club

Monday, September 21st, 2009

So you’re really determined to set your trampoline in the ground? It’s a good idea. But I do suggest that you consider these three vital areas: Water, Performance and Access. Lets take Water first. How will you know that your hole in the ground will not to fill up with water and become a pond? Some time in the winter dig a 75 cm (30 inch) deep hole where you plan to site your trampoline. After 24 hours inspect the hole. If it has not rained and there is any depth of water in the hole you have a high water table. Big problem. If the hole is dry fill it up to the top with water.

If the water drains away to leave the hole dry within the next 2 days then all is well. You can dig your hole and it will remain dry. If it is not dry then the drainage problem needs to be tackled with pipes and even maybe pumps. Next comes Performance. Most trampolines have hard wearing black polypropylene mesh beds. Place your trampoline in the ground and every time you depress the bed you are also compressing the air underneath the bed. That means less bounce. If you have a rectangular trampoline with a web or two string bed then the air can escape upwards through the holes in the bed. If you want to keep the trampoline flush with the surrounding ground, the most effective way for the air to escape is through big diameter plastic land drainage piping. I suggest two lengths of 15cm (6 inch) diameter that lead away underground to beneath nearby shrubs or bushes. Alternatively you could set the trampoline at a higher level than the surrounding lawn so that the air escapes under the frame pads, but this partly defeats the object of setting your trampoline in the ground in the first place. Lastly Access. Once your trampoline is nicely set in the ground it is very accessible. Any person, persons, animal or animals can just walk onto it or even ride onto it. Think in terms of denying instant easy access with some form of barrier like a low fence or hedge. Also consider a soft ‘gravel trap’ effect around the trampoline using 20cm deep of wood chip or bark which will also create a soft landing area for those who come off the trampoline accidentally.

Pre Season Trampoline Checks

Monday, September 21st, 2009

‘Spring is sprung, the grass is ris. I wonder where our trampoline is?” With sincere apologies to Damon Runyon. If you’re in a sheltered spot or yours was well tied down it will still be where it was back in the Autumn. But is it ready to deliver another season of joy and great exercise to your children and their friends? It’s a very good idea to give it the once over now so that come the Easter holidays everything goes smoothly.

Start with the frame. Check for cracks around the welds that join the legs to the top frame. Also check the underside of the leg bases where they rest on the ground. These points can wear right through leaving a large hole and a very weakened leg base. While you’re down there checking the frame its easy to see if any springs are hanging loose having come away from the bed. You can also identify the stretched ones. They should be replaced. If a spring hangs vertically from the frame it usually indicates that the attachment to the bed has come unstitched. If this is the case remove the bed and either have it completely restitched all the way round or replace it with a new bed. Check the bed for holes and tears. Autumn and spring bonfires can take their toll as can falling embers from Guy Fawkes Fireworks. Not to mention flying roof tiles and other items blown acroos your garden in winter gales. Check the frame pads are they still holding together and are they still properly attached to the trampoline frame. They’ll not give the necessary protection if not held securely in place and replacement elasticated toggle loops are not expensive.

Now for the enclosure: First check the frame work and ensure that the clamps are tight enough to holds the poles firmly in place. Are the pole foams all OK? Check the netting for rips and tears and ensure that the entrance can be opened and securely closed. Lastly check that the bungies that support the net are all in place and working. If you have a net that fits around the outside of the poles please give serious thought to replacing your enclosure with a safer one.

If your supplier doesn’t have the parts you need there are plenty of trampoline suppliers who do carry parts. Use google or go straight to www.supertrampdirect.co.uk

Happy Bouncing